Without any obvious change, we left the Republic of Ireland and entered Northern Ireland, part of the United Kingdom. Our first stop was the walled city of Derry, as it's called by those who hope for a unified Ireland, or Londonderry, as its called by those who want Northern Ireland to remain part of the United Kingdom. In 1972, 14 people were killed by British troops, an event that came to be known as Bloody Sunday. The sectarian violence has been largely absent for the past two decades and (London)Derry and all of Northern Ireland are successfully putting that past behind them. I asked our local guide how we could refer to the city without offending anyone and she said she recommended "Legend Derry."
Our next stop was Portrush, a resort town on the north coast of Ireland, in the center of a number of attractions, including Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Carrick-a- Rede Rope Bridge, Bushmill's Distillery, and the Royal Portrush Golf Course, which will be the site of the 2019 British Open. Our hotel was very nice and most rooms had an ocean view. (We were very excited that the hotel, like our B & B in Dingle, had a reasonably priced laundry service.) Because our tour took place after the height of the tourist season, many of the shops were closed, but there was some beautiful scenery in town and several excellent restaurants.
There is lots of pretty scenery in Portrush just a few minutes' walk from the hotel
Giant's Causeway is a unique geological feature running along the coast where volcanic activity has created thousands of polygonal rock formations shooting up from the ground. It got its name from a legend about a Scottish giant crossing over the Irish Sea to take on Irish hero Finn McCool. It is awe-inspiring and otherworldly.
Our final stop was Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland. Not too long ago, it was the scene of nearly constant violence. Today, it's a clean, vibrant city which has been peaceful for two decades. We toured through the northern part of the city, a working-class neighborhood. This part of the city is still divided by walls and religious differences, The southern part of the city, near the university, is wealthier and Protestants and Catholics are completely integrated.
Belfast was a major shipbuilding city. Most famously, the Titanic was built there. (The people of Belfast are quick to remind you that, "It was fine when it left here.") There is an excellent museum telling the story of the construction and the sinking of the ship.
Again, our hotel was centrally located and we were able to visit several pubs in the downtown area which were filled with music and people. We were very pleasantly surprised by how much we enjoyed Belfast.
Our Belfast hotel was the Europa. You shouldn't be put off by the oft-repeated claim that it has the distinction of being the most bombed building in all of Europe. Those times have long passed and it's a very elegant, high-rise hotel immediately adjacent to the bus station, from which you can catch a ride to the train station, airport, or ferry station.
We made a discovery at the Europa's breakfast where they served porridge (same as our oatmeal), with honey and Bushmill's whiskey. Breakfast of Champions!
Belfast was a major shipbuilding city. Most famously, the Titanic was built there. (The people of Belfast are quick to remind you that, "It was fine when it left here.") There is an excellent museum telling the story of the construction and the sinking of the ship.
Again, our hotel was centrally located and we were able to visit several pubs in the downtown area which were filled with music and people. We were very pleasantly surprised by how much we enjoyed Belfast.
Our Belfast hotel was the Europa. You shouldn't be put off by the oft-repeated claim that it has the distinction of being the most bombed building in all of Europe. Those times have long passed and it's a very elegant, high-rise hotel immediately adjacent to the bus station, from which you can catch a ride to the train station, airport, or ferry station.
We made a discovery at the Europa's breakfast where they served porridge (same as our oatmeal), with honey and Bushmill's whiskey. Breakfast of Champions!
Like (London)Derry, Belfast has a number of murals commemorating "the Troubles." The wall on the right is the Peace Wall. Residents have asked for it to remain in place to guard against soccer riots. There is a tradition of visitors leaving messages of peace on the wall.
Two of Ireland's greatest musical acts singing about the Belle of Belfast.
We had a great time touring Ireland, but we would offer a couple of tips. First, spending a few extra days on your own in Dublin is essential to getting all it has to offer. Second, even though you're on a guided tour, it helps to study guidebooks in order to take full advantage of your free time and to find restaurants for when you're eating on your own. With no language barrier, it's a very easy--and fun--country to navigate.
"In a neat little town they called Belfast . . .
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